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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.