Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
